みそ味専門 マタドール Miso Matador: miso by the horns

We recently tried the beef bone bowl at Matador, but were told on the way out that the ramen bullfighters have a sister shop that serves a kick-ass bowl of miso. This was too much for me to handle; I broke down in tears and screamed at the staff that I would go to Miso Matador the very next day (true story).

Miso Matador's claim to fame is, indeed, its miso, served noukou, or "thick as mud." This is rich, complex miso that you shouldn't give to grandma (unless you're trying to murder grandma, in which case, this bowl will do the deed).

Noukou zeitaku miso ramen (1100yen)

The "zeitaku" version is loaded with an obscene amount of toppings. Like its meatier, abusive brother that gets all the attention, Miso Matador serves up some great meat toppings. Two thick, sweaty pieces of meat adorn this bowl: the same roast beef that tops the beef bowl at Matador, as well as a dense slice of smoky, marbled beef chashu.

But wait! There's more. Miso Matador flicks some cool salsa into the proceedings, since miso can be very intense and get a little monotonous by the end.

This bowl indeed grabs you by the shirt collar and gives you a few swift jabs to the face. Intense flavor, like a good little bowl should.

But it's not enough to put you down. Perhaps it's my rapidly advancing age, but I rarely finish bowls of miso. I get mighty sick of that thick, intense soup pretty soon after the noodles are vanquished. Though the salsa and lotus roots are creative additions, after all is said and done, Miso Matador is still a miso.

But not every bowl needs love and a promise of commitment; some bowls just want to have fun and ride the ramen carousel. Miso Matador is still experimenting with its ramen identity, and doesn't need to be shamed for being true to itself.

Tokyo, Adachi-ku, Senjuadachi-cho 43-13
Closest stn: Kita-senju

Open from 1130am-1030pm (closes at 4pm on Sundays)

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