中華蕎麦 蘭鋳 Ranchu: serenity

Ranchu has been on our radar for some time now, but they have weird hours and it's always been a little bit of a chore to get there. They serve a polished niboshi shoyu with some of the best chashu in the city.

Ajitama soba (900yen)

Unfortunately, there was no chashu-men, so I settled for a bowl of chopped chashu covered in scallions. Meaty and paired well with the crunchy scallions, this appetizer would have been even better with a beer, but it was only noon, a good hour before I usually start my Tuesday drinking marathon, so Lum and I just munched on them sober.

A subtle niboshi flavor permeates this bowl, but after experiencing some recent other gutsier shops, I was expecting a little more punch. The noodles, from Mikawaya Seimen, were excellent. The chashu was as good as advertised, rare and pink and tender when it arrived. The only problem with this kind of slow-roasted pork is that you have to eat it within the first minute or two; otherwise, it will get cooked in the soup into a less appetizing hard beige slab.

Ranchu's well-balanced bowl is served in a quiet setting despite being on a busy thoroughfare, and the customers inside were intent on savoring the chefs' handiwork. A serene atmosphere for appreciating ramen.

Tokyo, Suginami-ku, Horinouchi 2-13-13
Closest stn: Honancho

Open from 12-2pm and 6-9pm (12-3pm on Saturdays, closed Sundays)

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