伊藤 銀座店 Ito: smooth as silk

Niboshi, katsuo, niboshi. Sardines, bonito, sardines. If it seems like every bowl we eat lately is derived from some kind of fish stock, it's no coincidence. This is definitely the trend for the past year. Continuing with the trek is Ito, which is normally a literal trek away in far-off Akabane, but fortunately just opened up a closer and more convenient second shop in Ginza, located in a building basement that was once probably once host to an exclusive "snack bar."

Nikusoba (medium - 850yen)

If the new Menya Shichisai is a Thai massage of niboshi, where the master bends you in ways that are both energizing and relaxing, Ito's take on niboshi is more of a gentle Swedish caressing of the body. This is smooth niboshi blues, with thin noodles that soak up the creamy and slightly translucent broth.

The toppings here are minimal - just some chopped green onions and, if you desire, some Hinai chicken or pork chashu. The focus is on the soup, of which you can order extra, something I've never seen in a ramen shop.

Simple and elegant, Ito is of its place in Ginza. These are bowls that slurp down easy.

Though the unpretentious manner in which its presented won't draw attention, those who can appreciate solid craft will find Ito a welcome addition to the increasingly refined Ginza ramen scene.

Tokyo, Chuo-ku, Ginza 6-12-2
Closest stn: Ginza

Open from 11am-11pm (closes at 8pm on weekends)

Hearts