鯛塩そば 灯火 Tai Shio-soba Touka: the snapper

Touka was another ramen shop that made the lists of many magazines last year. They specialize in ramen made of tai snapper, an ingredient that has been gaining in some popularity in recent years.

Tai shio soba with egg (900yen)

We were second in line before the shop even opened. A few minutes after we got in line, a staff member came out to greet us and said they'd be opening soon. Then, when we entered the shop, he briefly explained the menu in front of the ticket machine. Nice service is nice.

I've been to a few ramen shops that claimed to serve tai snapper as an ingredient in the broth, but Touka's shio ramen serves it as the main ingredient and you really taste the essence of the fish. I'm not sure I can describe this as ramen; it's more like a bowl of Japanese cuisine that is likely to be served at old Japanese restaurants. The appearance is so beautiful. Ofu, or dry-baked gluten cake, is a cute touch, and the flavor of yuzu citrus, the single piece of pink chashu pork...it all comes together so beautifully.

Hearts got the tai chazuke set, which comes with some fresh snapper sashimi topped with a goma black sesame sauce and a bowl or rice.

Tai chazuke set (370yen)

You first try a piece of the sashimi on the rice, then eat the remaining pieces with the ramen broth poured over the rice with some crunchy bits for added texture. What a wonderful morning meal.

It's been a while since the last time my heart beat quickly eating such great ramen. This is shio ramen at its most refined. I was completely fulfilled.

Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku, Funamachi 12-13
Closest stn: Akebonobashi

Open from 11am-3pm and 5pm-midnight

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