とんこつラーメン ひかり Hikari: signs

Not content to just settle for one Nagoya bowl, I went to Kozoji to check out my favorite secret Taiwan ramen shop with my old friend and now successful erotic dojinshi author. Unfortunately, we will have to wait to reveal our secret ramen shop, as it was closed. The master just takes days off without any warning, usually to go on vacations with his new, hot Filipino wife.

We instead chose a popular local tonkotsu shop that had strong pork bone smells wafting into the street. A good sign! The shop also happens to be the same as my middle name, which is also the same as one of my favorite Utada Hikaru songs. Another good sign! 

Noko Do-tonkotsu (750yen)

Hikari serves up some very funky tonkotsu that you'd likely find in Nagahama. If you like your tonkotsu to have the consistency of gravy, go ahead and try the ultra thick bowl at the top left of the machine. I wish I tried the namesake Hikari Ramen, as it was cut with some dashi soup for probably a more balanced taste for most Ramen Lovers.

Stinky, but clean, and the typical loaded toppings abound. You can choose the thickness of the broth in these bowls. 

For tonkotsu, you can't go wrong with Hikari. These guys know how to have fun, and their shop is tricked out with all sorts of cool signage and apparently some clever gentei bowls. The signs did not lead us astray.

Aichi, Kasugai-shi, Fujicho 3-1-13
Closest stn: Kozoji (about a 30 minute walk)

Open from 1130am-2pm and 6-10pm (closed Wednesdays)

Hearts

味噌屋麺四朗 Misoya Menshiro: plains wanderer

Nagoya is most well-known for their Taiwan ramen, but on this trip I only had time for a couple bowls with family. Nagoya is also known for big ramen restaurants that fit big groups of people. Menshiro is no different, though their specialty is in serving up miso styles from all over Japan. Since I went with a big family, we got to try all the styles.

Hokkaido (potatoes, extra broiled chashu)...

Kyushu (satsuma-age fried fish cake, extra chashu, butter)...

Shinshu (mountain greens)

Edomae (sauteed clams, nori)...

Tantanmen (spicy oil, minced meat)...

Mazemen (fresh vegetable tempura)...

I wish these were actually noticeably different, but other than the mazemen, most just use the same soup and noodles with some added condiments or spices. That's not necessarily a bad thing, as the basic miso is good stuff, and the huge list of toppings are a nice bonus that you usually only find in an udon shop. The various extras give a nice visual and flavorful variation on the standard procedure.

Always expect a wait here; the parking lot is always full of cars.

Aichi, Chita-shi, Yawata Sasahazama 12-31
Closest stn: Tatsumigaoka

Open from 11am-230pm and 5-11pm (closed Tuesdays)

Hearts

鯛塩そば 灯火 Tai Shio-soba Touka: the snapper

Touka was another ramen shop that made the lists of many magazines last year. They specialize in ramen made of tai snapper, an ingredient that has been gaining in some popularity in recent years.

Tai shio soba with egg (900yen)

We were second in line before the shop even opened. A few minutes after we got in line, a staff member came out to greet us and said they'd be opening soon. Then, when we entered the shop, he briefly explained the menu in front of the ticket machine. Nice service is nice.

I've been to a few ramen shops that claimed to serve tai snapper as an ingredient in the broth, but Touka's shio ramen serves it as the main ingredient and you really taste the essence of the fish. I'm not sure I can describe this as ramen; it's more like a bowl of Japanese cuisine that is likely to be served at old Japanese restaurants. The appearance is so beautiful. Ofu, or dry-baked gluten cake, is a cute touch, and the flavor of yuzu citrus, the single piece of pink chashu pork...it all comes together so beautifully.

Hearts got the tai chazuke set, which comes with some fresh snapper sashimi topped with a goma black sesame sauce and a bowl or rice.

Tai chazuke set (370yen)

You first try a piece of the sashimi on the rice, then eat the remaining pieces with the ramen broth poured over the rice with some crunchy bits for added texture. What a wonderful morning meal.

It's been a while since the last time my heart beat quickly eating such great ramen. This is shio ramen at its most refined. I was completely fulfilled.

Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku, Funamachi 12-13
Closest stn: Akebonobashi

Open from 11am-3pm and 5pm-midnight

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伊藤 銀座店 Ito: smooth as silk

Niboshi, katsuo, niboshi. Sardines, bonito, sardines. If it seems like every bowl we eat lately is derived from some kind of fish stock, it's no coincidence. This is definitely the trend for the past year. Continuing with the trek is Ito, which is normally a literal trek away in far-off Akabane, but fortunately just opened up a closer and more convenient second shop in Ginza, located in a building basement that was once probably once host to an exclusive "snack bar."

Nikusoba (medium - 850yen)

If the new Menya Shichisai is a Thai massage of niboshi, where the master bends you in ways that are both energizing and relaxing, Ito's take on niboshi is more of a gentle Swedish caressing of the body. This is smooth niboshi blues, with thin noodles that soak up the creamy and slightly translucent broth.

The toppings here are minimal - just some chopped green onions and, if you desire, some Hinai chicken or pork chashu. The focus is on the soup, of which you can order extra, something I've never seen in a ramen shop.

Simple and elegant, Ito is of its place in Ginza. These are bowls that slurp down easy.

Though the unpretentious manner in which its presented won't draw attention, those who can appreciate solid craft will find Ito a welcome addition to the increasingly refined Ginza ramen scene.

Tokyo, Chuo-ku, Ginza 6-12-2
Closest stn: Ginza

Open from 11am-11pm (closes at 8pm on weekends)

Hearts

Bonito Soup Noodle RAIK: like RAIK

The only good ramen shops in Eifukucho have been Taishoken and Kusamura, another sweet shoyu shop. But last summer, another shop was made. As you can see by the title of this post, the concept is bonito, or katsuobushi. There are two types you can choose from, a chuka soba style chicken soup mixed with bonito...

Katsuo x Tori RAIK Ramen (900yen)

...and a thicker pork broth cut with bonito.

Katsuo x Buta RAIK Ramen (900yen)

The chicken has a dark shoyu color and seems like it would be really strong and salty, but the first sip blew my expectations away. It wasn't strong at all, and was actually very refreshing. Some might call this broth too light. The noodles include some kind of wheat, and you can taste the sweetness of the flour as you chew them.

The pork was closer to a tonkotsu gyokai style and, though less memorable than the chicken, was still deep and complex. Apparently, the master soaks pork bones for 12 hours to make the tonkotsu soup, but then spends another two days marinating the broth with the bonito. That's dedication!

Both bowls include a flavored half-boiled egg, two different cuts of pork (seared belly and smoked loin), and a slice of steamed chicken. For 900 yen, that is a bargain!

The master trained at Atago, another shop with a bonito concept, and we could feel his passion for his katsuo. After we finished, there were a lot of people waiting in line, which makes sense since this shop can only accommodate six people at a time. It's a cozy and genuine place, with hip hop music running on a big screen TV in the corner. Everyone should feel good vibes with this cool ramen.

Tokyo, Suginami-ku, Omiya 1-2-3
Closest stn: Eifukucho

Open from 1130-3pm and 530-10pm (closed Mondays)

Lum